Figure-eight

The stopper that keeps a rope from running out of its gear.

What it is

The figure-eight is a stopper knot: a lump at the end of a rope that's too big to run through a block or a belay device. It's the knot climbers trust their lives to.

How to tie it

1.  make a loop in the end
2.  wrap the working end around the standing part
3.  pass it back through the loop
4.  pull tight — a clean "8" shape

When to use it

End-of-rope safety, climbing tie-ins (as a figure-eight follow-through), and any place a rope must not run free.